Wandern im Dauerregen hat auch etwas an sich: Es testet sicherlich das Durchhaltevermögen des Reisenden. Heute früh musste ich mir nicht überlegen, was ich anziehen sollte. Ein leichter Regen begrüsste mich beim Abmarsch im holländischen Noorbeek. Goretex von Kopf bis Fuss war angesagt.
Der Regen hatte dann auch einen Einfluss auf die Routenwahl. In den letzten Tagen hatte ich die Wahl zwischen Landstrassen, Radwegen, und Wanderwegen. Heute musste ich mehrheitlich auf die Wanderweg verzichten und meine Marschrote auf die Radwege beschränken, da das Winterwetter, mit einer beträchtlichen Schneedecke vor einer Woche die nun weggeschmolzen ist und dem Regen seither, viele der unbefestigten Wege richtig matschig werden liess.
Le chateau de Beusdael. The castle of Beusdael along the trail in the rolling hills of the Dutch/Belgian border region.
Das Wetter am Morgen war viel versprechend, trocken aber ein bisschen kühler als am Tag zuvor. Nach einer ruhigen Nacht innerhalb von Wall und Graben musste ich mich wieder den Gefahren der grossen weiten Welt aussetzen. – The weather in the morning was promising: It was dry and a bit cooler than the day before. After a restful night behind the fortifications of the city, I had to leave that security behind and expose myself to the dangers of the big world.
Wie erwarted bin ich unterwegs auf die Flämische Route des Jakobsweges gestossen. Meine Wanderung führte mich aber quer durchs Land, immer noch entlang der römischen Versorgungsstrecken aus dem Rheinland zur Küste. – As expected, I crossed the Flemish part of the Camino to Santiago (Way of St. James). My journey took me eastwards, more or less still following the supply routes of the Roman occupiers that led from the Rhine valley to the coast of the English Channel.
Diese romanische Kirche in Sluizen markiert den Ort wo ich nach einigen Abwegen auf den vorgesehenen Wander- und Radweg stiess. Am Ortsausgang überschritt ich dann die erste Grenze: Von Flandern nach Wallonien, und plötzlich sprachen sie alle französisch! – This well preserved Romanesque church at Sluizen marked the point along my way where I rejoined the planned hiking route. In Tongeren, I had difficulty finding the trail leading away from the city centre. At the end of the town of Sluizen, I crossed the first border of the day: I went from Flanders into Walloon, an all it a sudden everyone would speak French.
Diese Aussicht erinnerte mich daran was ich alles vermissen würde wenn ich nicht zu Fuss unterwegs wäre. Je schneller die Verkehrsmittel, desto mehr abgekapselt wird man von der Umgebung. – This view reminded me clearly about all the sights I would miss if I would not travel on foot. The faster a mode of transportation the more we become sealed off the environment and the surroundings.
Ein altes Scheunentor das dank einer geschickten Umfunktionierung neues Leben gefunden hat. Der gross Hofkomplex wurde in ein modernes Mehrfamilienhaus umgebaut. Da kann man nun wählen ob man dort wohnen will wo früher die Hühner, die Schweine, die Kühe, die Pferde, oder die Knechte und Mägde geschlafen haben. – This old farm gate found a new lease on life thanks to a thoughtful repurposing. The big farm estate was converted into a modern apartment complex. Now one can choose to live where formerly the hens, the pigs, the cows, the horses, or the servants used to sleep.
Das Wetterglück war nur beständig bis kurz nach der Mittagspause in Bassenge. Gleich beim Aufstieg aus dem Tal und während dem Übergang ins Moseltal regnete es. In den Höhenlagen war auch ein bisschen Schnee mit dabei. Hier die düstere Aussicht auf die Brücke die ich später benutzen werde um meine Reise Richtung Rheinland fortzusetzen. – The weather was only stable for a few hours. Right after my lunch break in Bassenge, as I started to climb to cross the pass over into the Mosel valley, strong rains spiked with the odd snow flurry set in. This is the view from the top, visualizing the approach to the bridge that I needed to cross in order to continue my journey towards the Rhine valley.
Nicht alle Höfe erhielten eine zweite Chance bei der neuzeitlich Landreform. Dieses Gut aus dem 13. Jahrhundert (mit Wehrturm und allem) hat den kürzeren gezogen in Zuge der Globalisierung der EU Landwirtschaft. – Not all the farms get a second chance during the latest land reform. This estate from the 13th century (with remnants of a fortified tower and all) did not survive the globalization of the EU agriculture.
Da hätte ich doch gleich noch ein paar Tage auf dem Frachtschiff fahren können: Die Reise wäre wesentlich trockener ausgefallen als zu Fuss… Hier auf der Brücke habe ich mir im peitschenden Regen überlegt ob es nicht eine Busverbindung von Visé bis zu meiner Tagesdestination gäbe! – I could have stayed a few extra days on a freighter vessel: That way the journey would have been much drier that the one on foot. At this point I was ready to look for a bus to take me to the destination of the day!
Am östlichen Moselufer ging es dann gleich bergauf und querfeldein über mehrere Hügelzüge und durch kleinere Täler. Wie schon am Vortag zeigte sich die Sonne in voller Pracht um den Weg beim Endspurt zu beleuchten. – On the eastern shore of the Mosel river, the trail started to climb and led me cross country across several ridges and small valleys. Just like the day before, bright sunshine was lighting my way to the finishing line to emphasize the glory of this day.
“Het Twijvelgrens.” Hast du auch schon Zweifel gehabt an Grenzen? Dies ist der Grenzstein an der belgisch-holländischen Grenze (magst du raten welche Seite zu welchem Land gehört?). Wenn man sich überlegt was eine international Staatsgrenze so alles bedeuten kann muss man sich bei diesem Bild schon kräftig einreden, dass Grenzen wirklich sind. – Did you ever have doubts about borders? This is the marker for the border between Belgium and Holland (can you tell which side is which counrty?). If you reflect on the consequences and meanings of an international border, you have to strongly make yourself believe in their power by looking at this picture.
For those who would like to see the trail portion of my journey so far: here is a map.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
The cherry fram and birthplace of Christina the Astonishing. Some of the outbuilding have been converted to accommodate guests.
Have you ever wondered what happens to the cherry tree after years of live-giving fruit production?
The Roman overland trail turned into bicycle trail and access to fields and orchards. The bicycle and hiking trail networks in Flanders is very well marked.
The little church along the way: Helshoven.
Many of the public buildings display paintings that would normally be found in high priced museums. The Last Supper by a local painter who aspired to become famous like Rubens (16/17th century)
Tienne Michiels being freed from the worldly restraints and injusticess (condemned to death after a two-year trial and burnt as a witch at the stake in 1667).
Pilgrimage along the overland trail from Kassel (Germany) to Bavay (France) developed by the Romans.
The doubt border. Installation by Fred Eerdekens.
The beauty of a day of hiking in what most would consider a miserable day.
Inviting approaches often lead to disappointment!
The most curious and elaborate park bench I encountered so far along my trail through Belgium.
Open landscape.
Mountainous terrain in eastern Flanders, looking south into the Walloon region of Belgium.
The Romanesque courtyard at the cathedral in Tongeren. Here is the centre of power of pre-Celtic (Eburones), Gallo-Roman (Tungri), Roman colonialists, and medieval dynasties.
Sint-Jons church in Tongeren, touched by the rare sunlight of the day.
A corner in the extensive Béguinage of Tongeren with a hostel for the pilgrim.
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Turbocharged with the cherry juice from the orchards of my hosts (Cherryfarm Bakkershof in Brustem) and the memories of the eccentric gifts of the historic Christina, who was born in this very place, I set out into a warm and grey mid-winter day. 13 degrees Celsius, I need to dress down significantly!
The showers were frequent throughout the day. As I walked along the trail, I started to understand why the oldest settlements were in locations that we would call ‘holes’: These depressions are a natural protection from the strong winds that happen to blow frequently in this flat landscape. If it weren’t for the many groves and rows of sheltering trees, it would feel like on the islands in the Canadian Arctic.
This morning, I have left Antwerp by train. The beautiful weather from yesterday is gone, replaced by the one that I would have expected for this region and this time of the year: A rainy grey, but at least not freezing.
It was good to get on the train, to put some distance to the port and the city. And the landscape changed slowly, from the urban to the industrial, from the commercial to the suburban, then fields and forest, creeks and towns. I feel better in these more rural settings. Although Antwerp did not strike me as extremely loud in term of ubiquitous advertising and commercial overstimulation, I was able to feel that hollowness of the commercialized city life.
The Brave Hunter and the Walrus – Team Canada (photo credit: Donald C. Watt/snowcarver.ca)
The Brave Hunter and the Walrus
There once was a brave hunter who harpooned walruses to feed his village. This hunter would travel far out on the ice flows to where the giant walruses like to sun themselves. Once when hunting, he harpooned a giant walrus and was pulling it in when the walrus lunged forward to attack the brave hunter. At the same time the wife of the walrus came rising up under the ice flow the brave hunter was standing on trying to safe her husband.
Der Tapfere Jäger und das Walross
Es war einmal ein tapferer Jäger der Walrosse harpunierte um sein Dorf zu ernähren. Dieser Jäger reiste weit auf die Eisschollen hinaus, wo sich die riesigen Walrosse gerne sonnten. Auf einer dieser Jagden harpunierte er ein riesiges Walross und zog es zu sich hin. Da stürzte sich das Walross vorwärts um den tapferen Jäger angreifen. Zur gleichen Zeit kam die Frau des Walross an die Oberfläche von unterhalb der Eisscholle, auf der der tapfere Jäger stand, um zu versuchen ihren Mann zu retten.
Il Cacciatore Coraggioso e il Tricheco
C’era una volta un cacciatore coraggioso che arpionava trichechi per nutrire il suo villaggio. Questo cacciatore viaggiava lontano sul ghiaccio fino alla località, dove i trichechi giganti prendevano il sole. Una volta, il cacciatore aveva arpionato un tricheco gigante e lo stava tirando verso lui, quando il tricheco si lanciò in avanti per attaccare il cacciatore coraggioso. Allo stesso tempo, la moglie del tricheco si avvicinava da sotto il ghiaccio marino che il cacciatore coraggioso era in piedi, per provare a salvare suo marito.
First place Snow Festival in San Vigilio 2013:
Sister Sun and Brother Moon – Team Canada (photo credit: Donald C. Watt/snowcarver.ca)
Sister Sun and Brother Moon
A long time ago when the only light in the world was fire, the people lived in large round houses. In one such house a brother would always chase his sister around the fire. One time, while running around the fire, the sister grabbed up a brightly burning stick and headed outside the house to escape her brother, but brother then grabbed a small twig that burned less bright and ran out after her. They ran around and around the house but brother could not catch sister. They kept on running until they realized they were running across the sky. Sister’s brighter fire became the sun and Brothers dimmer light became the moon. Today you can still see Sister Sun and Brother Moon running circles across the sky.
Schwester Sonne und Bruder Mond
Vor langer Zeit, als das einzige Licht in der Welt Feuer war, lebten die Menschen in großen, runden Häusern. In ein solches Haus rannte ein Bruder immer seiner Schwester um das Feuer herum nach. Einmal, während dem sie um das Feuer herum lief, packte die Schwester einen hell brennenden Stab und ging aus dem Haus, um ihren Bruder zu entkommen. Der Bruder aber dann packte einen kleinen Zweig, der weniger hell brannte, und lief ihr nach. Sie liefen im Kreis um das Haus herum, aber der Bruder konnte nicht die Schwester nicht fangen. Sie rannten bis sie erkannten, dass sie am Firmament gingen. Das helle Feuer der Schwester wurde die Sonne und das schwächere Licht des Bruders wurde der Mond. Noch heute kann man sehen wie Schwester Sonne und Bruder Mond am Himmel kreisen.
Sorella Sole e Fratello Luna
Molto tempo fa, quando l’unica luce del mondo era il fuoco, la gente viveva in grandi case rotonde. In una casa un fratello avrebbe sempre inseguire la sorella intorno al fuoco. Una volta, durante il giro intorno al fuoco, la sorella ha afferrato un bastone luminoso ardente e si diresse fuori la casa per sfuggire al suo fratello, ma lui poi afferrò un piccolo ramoscello che bruciava meno brillante e corse dietro. Correvano intorno e intorno alla casa ma fratello non poteva prendere la sorella. Hanno continuato a correre fino che essi sono reso conto che corrono attraverso il cielo. Il fuoco brillante della sorella divenne il sole e la luce del fratello divenne la luna. Oggi è ancora possibile di vedere la Sorella Sole e il Fratello Luna giranti attraverso il cielo.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
Die Kathedrale von Antwerpen – the cathedral in Antwerp
Many old brick buildings in Antwerp have survived time and the wars. But they do not shine like in the glory days of this port city.
This is not the cathedral: It is the central railway station. Belgium was not always a marginal region within the EU. For some decades, it was mingling among the colonial powers of the world.
Witness to the hidden sources of past wealth and affluence: The stately Congo Trading Post on the waterfront. There are no more commercial docks along the riverfront in the old city. The ship all land in modern docks in the industrial port north of the city.
The former glory still reflects in the puddles of the streets and lanes that leave a strong melancholic, if not depressing impression on the visitors.
The consequences of various crises are highly visible. Some of the prominent buildings are being restored and maintained with money from the European Union, while other, more humble ones are abandoned or have disappeared completely.
The grave of the unknown refugee. A unique monument to acknowledge the many refugees from all over the world that never make it to the Western world on their quest to escape social injustice and to seek a better life in the affluent parts of the world.
De Begijnhof in Antwerpen. This is a unique settlement within the city. It housed until 1986 a community of Beguines. Now it is a secular residential complex, maintaining the peace and quiet of its history.
Another view of the Béguinage in Antwerp. The small houses in this walled court were built to accommodate women who chose to live a religious life outside of a monastery with a strong communal sense.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
As I mentioned in my ship diary, as part of the video project “Goodbye America”, Elan and I recorded his live song “Ain’t got no Radio”. Elan Wischkin composed the song while at sea, reminiscing about a road trip he took just prior to his sea voyage. – Ich habe in meinem Reisetagebuch erwähnt dass Elan ein Lied für den Kurzfilm beitragen wollte. Elan Wischkin hat den Song unterwegs geschrieben, komponiert, und aufgenommen. Es ist eine Erinnerung an eine Überlandreise die er kurz vor der Seefahrt unternommen hat.
Listen to the original song and live recording here: – Hier kannst du die Live Aufnahme hören:
For bookings, tour dates, etc contact me and I’ll connect you with Elan!
Elan Wischkin – Singer/Songwriter extraordinaire during our transatlantic journey.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
Google Map mit dem ungefähren Kurs den wir auf der MV Rickmers Shanghai zurückgelegt haben. – The approximate route of the MV Rickmers Shanghai January 2013 transatlantic crossing.
Hier ist eine Kopie meines Reisetagebuchs von der Überfahrt (in Englisch). I have attached a copy of my ship diary.
Ship Diary:
January 13, 2013
Late this afternoon, I called the agent for the shipping company to confirm the departure time for the vessel. He said he was very glad that I called: The ship is expected to leave very early in the morning. Originally, departure time was estimated to be between noon and 6 o’clock. He kindly asked me to make my way to the marine terminal and check-in tonight.
Am Anfang meiner Schiffsreise habe ich Impressionen per Video festgehalten. Daraus hat sich folgender Kurzfilm ergeben.
At the beginning of my sea voyage, I captured some impressions by video. I had the time to cut and edit a short film from the material.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
Im Hafen von Antwerpen (gegenüber liegt ein Schiff wie dasjenige das uns in 1993 nach Nordamerika brachte) – In port in Antwerp (moored across is a ship very similar to the one that took us to North America in 1993)Die Kathedrale von Antwerpen – the cathedral in Antwerp
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
Dear Friends, please find my approximate current position on the map below! Liebe Freunde, auf der folgenden Karte könnt ihr sehen wo ich zur Zeit unterwegs bin!
Further updates once I come ashore in Antwerp – Mehr Neuigkeiten nach meiner Ankunft in Antwerpen.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
More than twenty years ago, I read an explanation of what your name meant: It was deemed an Ojibway term for the Dene, indicating a people that is not the way they are. Sure sounds like what the Romans called the inhabitants of rest of the world: barbari!
Happy Birthday, Athabasca! Celebrate, enjoy, and stay safe!
I wish you all the best in your academic and artistic endeavours. May you find your niche in this highly complex and not always welcoming world for those who are unique and allow themselves to express themselves freely.
And remember, I want to continue to support you on your life journey, as your father, your friend, and your mentor. I will keep you in my thoughts during my journey and pilgrimage. I will also hold you in the Light so you may experience the divine love. Even if you feel you are not the way we are, your are still embraced by the All-loving.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
It’s time to leave.Port of Philadelphia, but definitely the wrong ship…(or maybe just the wrong century)
It is time again to move on. Today, I am boarding the ship for Europe. – Es ist Zeit zum Aufbrechen. Heute gehe ich an Bord für die Seefahrt nach Europa.
MV Rickmers Shanghai in port (photo credit: Captain Peter)
It feels strange to get on a ship so far from a coastline. Here is the Delaware River that will provide the waterway to take us to the North Atlantic. – Es fühlt sich komische an, im Landesinnern win grosses Schiff zu besteigen. Wir werden auf dem Delaware River bis zur Küste des Atlantischen Ozeans fahren.
The old municipal pier in Philadelphia.Delaware River from the Benjamin Franklin bridge between Philadelphia, PA and Camden, NJ.
Invite somebody to read - Lade jemand zum lesen ein:
OFRADIX 